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 Post subject: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 6:42 pm 
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Until I can get one of my windows pulled out I'm going to start posting pictures of the current state for reference.

First off is the handle that latches the window closed. They say LE VAN SPECIALTY CO INC. with a patent number of 3,087,537. Click here to read the patent.


Attachments:
handle1.jpg
handle1.jpg [ 142.51 KiB | Viewed 82556 times ]
handle2.jpg
handle2.jpg [ 27.51 KiB | Viewed 82556 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 6:43 pm 
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This is the strip that holds the screen in and the handle latches to.


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screen_holder.jpg
screen_holder.jpg [ 39.53 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 6:45 pm 
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This is the outside of the bathroom window so Eric can see what it looks like, this is for the floor plan that has the double closet. The left 1/3 of the window is blocked by the closet and has a fiberglas insert behind the glass to block it out.


Attachments:
bathroom_01.jpg
bathroom_01.jpg [ 95.29 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]
bathroom_02.jpg
bathroom_02.jpg [ 65.59 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]

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Last edited by NicksGarage on June 15th, 2011, 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 6:56 pm 
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The original fuzzy channel that the windows slide in is a wire mesh with flocking in a U shape with flat bottom and verticle sides. I haven't found the exact shape and size. I bought one kind that is very close but the sides are angled. The dimension across the top is right but the bottom is narrower. I cut a section and put it under one window and it is very hard to move the window.

The alternative that is available at Vintage Trailer Supply, http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Air ... ts-278.htm, is an all rubber extrusion with flocking on inside as seen below. I bought one of these and worked it in under my kitchen window (I had remove both the top and bottom old fuzzy channel. This rubber channel didn't go around the corners as nice as the wire one. It actually bunched up and I had to play around with it to get the window closed. It's been in there a couple months now and is now holding the correct shape. The window slides very nicely on this channel.

I wasn't able to get it to go all the way around with the window together.

Note, this rubber fuzzy channel is solid so it will not let water get to the drain slots in the windows. Matching slots need to be cut into the rubber so that any water will go out instead of in to the camper. The wire channel drains along it's length.


Attachments:
fuzzy_channel_vts.jpg
fuzzy_channel_vts.jpg [ 15.42 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]

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Last edited by NicksGarage on June 15th, 2011, 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 7:07 pm 
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Here is the VTS fuzzy channel installed in the kitchen window. Kind of hard to see much from these pictures but it does fit well. Probably should be glued in place at least in spots but it doesn't seem like it would fall out. The old channel was glued in spots.


Attachments:
fuzzy_channel_vts2.jpg
fuzzy_channel_vts2.jpg [ 55.78 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]
fuzzy_channel_vts3.jpg
fuzzy_channel_vts3.jpg [ 75.39 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 7:10 pm 
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This is a picture of the original fuzzy channel. You can see that it is the same fitted size as the VTS rubber channel. You can also clearly see the inside and outside drainage slots.


Attachments:
fuzzy_channel_old.jpg
fuzzy_channel_old.jpg [ 106.53 KiB | Viewed 82555 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 7:20 pm 
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I couldn't get a great picture of the fuzzy sweep strip that mounts to the outside window trim and seals the sliding pane. The window has to come out to change this. I don't know if once the window is out if the bar can be removed without totally disassembling the window.

UPDATE: After looking at some discussion on the Revcon forum it looks like this trim may just be pressed onto the edge of the glass. If so the sweep could be replaced withouth disassembling the window. Will have to take a closer look.

Vintage Trailer Supply sells this material to fit Revcons so I bought a section of it to try. Here is a link. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Air ... ts-277.htm

I won't know if it is a match until I try it.

Update: Click here for more information on the sweep.


Attachments:
sweep.jpg
sweep.jpg [ 150.29 KiB | Viewed 82553 times ]

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Last edited by NicksGarage on June 16th, 2011, 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 15th, 2011, 7:25 pm 
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More window outside pictures.


Attachments:
window_rear.jpg
window_rear.jpg [ 71.77 KiB | Viewed 82553 times ]
window_side_rear.jpg
window_side_rear.jpg [ 75.62 KiB | Viewed 82553 times ]
window_side_front.jpg
window_side_front.jpg [ 77.44 KiB | Viewed 82553 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 16th, 2011, 9:23 am 
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Just to clarify...

So far it looks like the all rubber channel is the better solution. The shape of it grips the channel when installed. The wire based channel that I got fits realy tight to the window and when I would try to slide the window, the channel would move and then bunch up. I'm not sure if gluing it in will prevent this or if it would loosen up over time. And keep in mind I only had it at the bottom of the window. With it at the top, it might be twice as tight.

I still plan to try the wire channel installation when I have a window out of the coach.

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 16th, 2011, 9:37 am 
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I'm also trying to confirm if the Revcon windows of the era were made by Le Van. I already got someone to measure the height of windows in their 1972 Revcon and they said they are 26 3/4" tall. Ours are 24" tall. While this means that Revcon windows wouldn't fit directly, parts could be modified or cut down to work.

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: June 27th, 2011, 10:21 pm 
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I measured the windows and here are the approximate amounts of stripping needed to redo all the windows. This is based on my floor plan that has half the bathroom window blocked off by the closet. May need different amounts for models with the vanity next to the bath.

Fuzzy channel - 26.7 feet
7/16" grey filler - 13.3 feet
3/8" grey filler - 28.3 feet
Fuzzy sweep strip - 7.3 feet

I still need to measure the grey channel that holds the fixed window panes.

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: July 12th, 2011, 1:19 pm 
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I did find an old post on the Revcon forum where someone was looking for a latch for one of their windows and they stated that it was stamped "Le Van". So that gets us closer.

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: July 17th, 2011, 7:36 pm 
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Went to the junkyard today to get some parts and found a couple 1972 Dodge conversion vans with small Le Van windows in them. I was able to get a couple handles and some sections of the window edge moulding that holds the sweep strip. Tried the sweep strip I bought from Vintage Trailer Supply and it's too narrow so I'll have to look for another supplier. The strip needed is about 9/32" wide.

I also found a '73 Ford van with Le Van windows in it. I tried to get one of the sweep strips off the window and it was a lot harder to get off. Turns out it had screws holding it in to the frame at the top and bottom. The ones from the Dodges didn't and I guess the Hall GTC doesn't either. You can see a the provision for the screw at the end of the extrusion.


Attachments:
sweep2.jpg
sweep2.jpg [ 49.2 KiB | Viewed 82462 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: July 17th, 2011, 9:09 pm 
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Here's a picture of the latch. The rubber piece is what holds it to the glass. A pretty tight fit.


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handle3.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: July 18th, 2011, 7:40 pm 
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Today I did a little more looking at the sweep strips. I've been searching around online trying to find something that is the right size. The width isn't a problem as it seems to be a common size at 9/32". The thickness is a problem. The pile is about 3/16" thick and has a center fin. This is the information on the strip that was in the van window moldings I got in the junkyard.

Today I pulled one of the moldings off my GTC and while the aluminum extrusion is the same, the sweep strip was different. I had read on the Vintage Trailer Supply site that there was an aluminum retainer that needed to be reused. The sweep strip I bought from them was a lot narrower from what I found in the van moldings. Turns out that the molding from the GTC does indeed have an aluminum mounted sweep strip. I don't think they intended it to be refillable but instead you just bought it complete and installed it. It had "SP-500" stamped on the back of it. I removed part of the sweep so I could see if the VTS sweep would fit. It actually does and looks like it would work. There isn't much to the VTS strip, it's pretty narrow so not much contact with the glass. I think I'd rather find something more like the van sweep. The aluminum backing material is about .017" thick.

UPDATE: Found a new sweep strip that fits. http://www.swisco.com/Gray-Wool-Pile-9_ ... ile/58-045
Scroll down in the discussion for more info and pictures.


Attachments:
sweep11.jpg
sweep11.jpg [ 50.87 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]
File comment: VTS sweep inserted.
sweep10.jpg
sweep10.jpg [ 26.84 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]
File comment: Removed portion of original insert.
sweep09.jpg
sweep09.jpg [ 56.19 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]
sweep08.jpg
sweep08.jpg [ 47.22 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]
File comment: On the right is small section of VTS sweep.
sweep07.jpg
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sweep06.jpg
sweep06.jpg [ 47.37 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]
sweep05.jpg
sweep05.jpg [ 59.22 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]
File comment: GTC molding on the left, van on the right.
sweep04.jpg
sweep04.jpg [ 59.9 KiB | Viewed 82457 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: July 24th, 2011, 3:58 pm 
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After going back to the junkyard to take apart some of the windows there I'll have to update the amounts of the strips needed to rebuild the windows. The window frame extrusion is held together by a small aluminum strip and four screws. Once the screws are remove you can carefully spread the frame apart to get the glass out. It was quite difficult on the small windows at the junkyard so care must be taken not to bend the frames. Also the screws holding the windows in can be quite difficult to remove. I used a small Makita impact driver and give them a few whacks to get them going.

Here are the different types of strips needed. I'll add the lengths and pictures of each later.

Fuzzy channel
Grey filler for inside of sliding windows
Grey filler for outside of sliding windows
Grey filler for inside of fixed rear window
Grey U-shaped gasket for fixed window panes
Grey U-shaped gasket for center post
Fuzzy sweep for center post

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: December 15th, 2011, 8:41 pm 
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Here are some pictures of the Swisco sweep strip installed in the moulding. The stuff that VTS was selling that required reusing the aluminum holder was just too wimpy and it would be a royal pain to install.

Both of the Swisco parts have a 9/32" wide backing strip that fits perfectly in the moulding. Part number 58-045 has a pile depth of 1/4", 58-128 has a pile depth of 5/32". The 1/4" version fits nice and tight against the glass.

You'll need 8 or 10 feet depending on if you have 4 or 5 sliders. Swisco sells it for around 8 dollars, plus shipping, for a 25' length which gives you enough to do all the windows and have enough to do them again.

Here are the links to Swisco's site:

58-045 - http://www.swisco.com/Gray-Wool-Pile-9_ ... ile/58-045
58-128 - http://www.swisco.com/Gray-Wool-Pile-9_ ... ile/58-128

Attachment:
File comment: 58-045 1/4" pile.
sweep12.jpg
sweep12.jpg [ 33.72 KiB | Viewed 82323 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: 58-045 1/4" pile.
sweep13.jpg
sweep13.jpg [ 42.16 KiB | Viewed 82323 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: 58-128 5/32" pile.
sweep15.jpg
sweep15.jpg [ 43.74 KiB | Viewed 82323 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: 58-128 5/32" pile.
sweep14.jpg
sweep14.jpg [ 45 KiB | Viewed 82323 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: December 21st, 2011, 9:52 am 
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Matt Tritt just resealed all his windows and he found that the original seals between the window frame and body were a rubber material that was dry and cracked and this allowed water to penetrate into the body. This would explain the wet or rotted flooring behind the cab and the rusty cab floors. My GTC also leaks behind the passenger side camper window next to the camper entry door. There is also wood blocking around the window openings that were rotted fromt the moisture. He is going to be posting information on how he redid his windows along with additional pictures. Here are a couple for now.


Attachments:
Sample_283.JPEG
Sample_283.JPEG [ 831.5 KiB | Viewed 82267 times ]
Sample_284.JPEG
Sample_284.JPEG [ 1.01 MiB | Viewed 82267 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2012, 8:57 pm 
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Here are a few more photos of my window project. I had to replace a fair amount of rotted wood, all the seals and all the weatherstripping. Big job! But worth it. I can report absolutely no leaks after the heavy rains over the weekend. :>)


Attachments:
Sample_292.JPEG
Sample_292.JPEG [ 1.2 MiB | Viewed 82115 times ]
Sample_291.JPEG
Sample_291.JPEG [ 1.29 MiB | Viewed 82115 times ]
Sample_285.JPEG
Sample_285.JPEG [ 733.23 KiB | Viewed 82115 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: January 25th, 2012, 3:25 pm 
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I have the same leak.. How did you replace the wood that was rotted out around the window? If you can post more info about what all you did that would be of great help. My Hall is in a nice dry shop for the winter so I'm not to worried right now. But long term I know I need to fix both driver side windows.


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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: January 30th, 2012, 10:52 pm 
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Sure. Assuming that you have found substantial amounts of rotted wood within the body cavity, what you will need to do is to first remove all the bad pieces with an old chisel of heavy screwdriver and a shop vacuum. You then will measure the width and length of the openings where new wood is needed and head either to your vast supply of nice, dry Douglas Fir lumber (#2 Pine will be fine as well) or, to the lumber yard and stock up. I have a good inventory of woodworking equipment here - including a Shopsmith with bandsaw, belt/drum sander, large face sander, planer, tablesaw, shaper, jigsaw and etc - most of which were used in getting the precise sizes and dimensions for the replacement pieces. If you don't have access to a full shop you'll just have to rely on what you have, and a disc grinder.

For better or worse, I didn't use any glue or epoxy when installing the new wood parts, since the window will keep everything nice and stable once assembled. I also decided not to use any treated lumber in the process to avoid off-gassing. Bad stuff.

All the old rubber gasketing has to be removed carefully from both the frames and the body to allow for a good seal when assembling. Also, when you remove the old window channel you need to scrupulously clean out the aluminum seats to avoid creating unwanted water channels and sticking windows. You will need to cut drain holes in your new flocked rubber channel (Nick knows the part number) to match those in the old steel/composite channel exactly. Important!!

Be very cautious when handling the windows as they are actually pretty rare and expensive to reproduce. I found that whoever had cut out the window openings at the factory had gone off the mark in several spots, making the correct positioning of the windows not too easy, but you must be careful to see that the new seals are amking contact with the body all the way round every window. I had to apply a little silicone in one or two spots to make sure!

If you haven't removed the windows yet, be careful not to hog out the ^%#! Phillips head screws with the wrong driver, as some can be a real bugger to get out. I replaced most of the screws with stainless on reassembly to avoid difficulties in the future.

I will get the make and model of the rubber gasketing I used as it worked very nicely

Any questions, just ask.


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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: January 30th, 2012, 10:54 pm 
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One tip I forgot: Do them ALL and avoid more misery down the road! Once you get going on it, it's good to keep up the momentum. ;-)


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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: January 31st, 2012, 10:44 am 
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I'm planning on using bluwood on mine when I do it. This is a safe treated lumber that is water and rot resistant. Lowes down here was selling it for a while but has stopped. I have some already that I bought for another project. See if it's available in your area. It is non-hazardous and can be worked with regular tools.

http://bluwood.com/

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: February 1st, 2012, 5:42 pm 
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Thanks for the info.. Due to the missing parts and glass on the back window I may have to try adapting something else in there. I'm currently working on house projects so the hall is on the back burner until March.


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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: February 1st, 2012, 7:06 pm 
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Swanson wrote:
Thanks for the info.. Due to the missing parts and glass on the back window I may have to try adapting something else in there. I'm currently working on house projects so the hall is on the back burner until March.


Did you get the message I sent you about the missing aluminum strip for your window? Matt had the same problem on his and I found some smaller windows and he was able to use two pieces to fix his. I have more for you if you want them. I don't know what other parts you are missing but I also have extra latches for the windows.

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: February 7th, 2012, 10:54 am 
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Do you mean the back window as in the fixed one all the way aft? If so, that shouldn't be too big a problem - maybe. If not, like Nick said, he might have the parts you need.


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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: February 7th, 2012, 2:49 pm 
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No, his damaged window is the bathroom one. He has the style with the vanity next to the bath so it has a sliding pane in the front and rear. The fixed piece of glass was replaced and it looks like he was missing the strip from the trailing edge.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: September 11th, 2012, 7:34 am 
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Here's an exerpt from a post on the Revcon Curious discussion Yahoo Group:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rev ... sage/20372

After buying my '73 250D last fall more or less sight unseen (except for internet pics) and driving it home 1300 miles in two days with a combination of some leaking, some rattling, some moveable, and some not moveable windows, I knew that a window rehab was in order. All of the rubber and fuzzy parts were well past their prime. I did some internet research both here and elsewhere before starting. The following is what I used and what I observed / learned:

1) I bought the 'fuzzy channel' for the sliding panes from Vintage Trailer Supply and am very satisfied with it. Most of the reviews at their site as well as here agree as well. It takes a little coaxing around the corners to shape it, but I found it to be the easiest piece of material to work with.

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Air ... ts-278.htm

2) I bought Primeline P7758 for the 'fixed' panes for the four most rearward side windows (all the side windows EXCEPT the front two) . It worked on the rearward four only for me because on those the fixed pane is in the forward position in the window unit and in the outer (shorter) aluminum channel. This product was a tight fit to say the least, but in a clean channel with plenty of soap for installation it went together. Some gentle tapping on the aluminum as well as clamping across the window unit to gently squeeze it back to parallel brought them together. While it was the correct dimension for the glass, it could have been a few thousandths thinner stock for this application. They wouldn't sell it direct, but a 100' roll was pretty reasonable through Home Depot.

http://www.prime-line-products.com/home ... tem=P+7758

3) I had to use a thinner and taller product for the two front fixed panes, as the Primeline product above wouldn't go into the taller (inner) channel. I found some ½ inch tall channel for 3/16 glass at my local Ace Hardware store. I'm going to be back there soon and will get the manufacturer and part number. The downside of this is that the channel that this goes into is really more of a "J" shape than a "U" shape. The half inch dimension works good for the taller side but results in a little overage on the shorter (outside) edge. I found it to be a reasonable compromise. I might try to trim back the outside edge to neaten it up.

4) The fuzzy sweep on the vertical aluminum member was easily found at Ace as well. Once the old fuzzy strip was out of the main aluminum upright, I noticed it had a light aluminum backing crimped to it. I didn't try to peel the old fuzzy out of it's light duty aluminum backing. I instead bought fuzzy stock with a slightly wider "T" base (to mimic the original full dimension of the crimped aluminum) and was very satisfied with the results.

5) The one piece that I gave up on was the rubber on the vertical aluminum member that more or less attaches it to the fixed pane (same aluminum with the previously described fuzzy sweep). Not finding anything thin enough, I just was careful to leave it alone.

Once back together the units were reinstalled with ½ inch wide butyl glazing tape, also from Vintage.

I am still looking for the "filler" pieces (two sizes need for the side window units, bigger for the door window and rear bathroom window). I plan on getting to a big car show locally at the end of the month and checking out some of the weatherstrip vendors. If that doesn't go anywhere I am going to simply reverse my remaining fuzzy channel (from Vintage) and the Primeline product and glue it in place. If it is too loose (as it will be somewhat hollow inside instead of solid like the original) I might try putting a thin piece of automotive vacuum hose in it to expand it out to a tight fit. The good news is that I was able to reinstall the windows without these pieces, as they are easily accessed even with the units in.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com


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 Post subject: Re: Windows
PostPosted: August 6th, 2013, 7:03 pm 
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GTC Owner, Site Admin
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 416
Location: San Diego, CA
I moved the post about Revcon front window latches into its own thread.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=80

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www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com


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