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 Post subject: sad news about front end
PostPosted: August 8th, 2014, 11:19 am 
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have to rebuild the front end ...the last mechanic i took it to said it needed ball joints and the rest was ok....it was done and i drove it home and it was worse than before took it to another shop (frustrated) to have it looked at said i needed the idler arms and bushings..basically the front end was wore out...ill be trying to redeem the cash from the first mechanic because he was an idiot...i dunno how they can think they can get away with telling u completly wron g information when things go wrong ...grrr...so anyway it will be running fine...i went ahead and purchased a steering stabilizer as well to bring the technology up to modern times as well hopefully im going to get a smooth ride


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PostPosted: August 8th, 2014, 11:26 am 
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While they're in there, have them look for any cracks in the frame at the steering box. There's a TSB about it.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=51

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PostPosted: August 9th, 2014, 4:23 pm 
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Yes. I went through this exercise a few years back as well. I replaced all tierod ends, the idler arm, drag link, steering box and the power steering pump. Checked the frame for the recall fix that takes care of potential frame cracks, which was done way back when it was under warranty. I also replaced the original front sway bar (not factory equip) that was worse than nothing at all. Fitting the new bar was a major PITA, but very worth the effort. Where did you get the stabilizer??


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PostPosted: August 12th, 2014, 9:05 am 
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rock auto


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PostPosted: September 4th, 2014, 4:15 pm 
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Do you have the part # of that steering stabilizer from RA? I bought a MOOG kit from jegs that is supposed to fit, but it doesn't (because the shock housing is too fat to clear the drag link/driver's side tie rod fastener). Your help would be appreciated!

Matt


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PostPosted: September 4th, 2014, 4:29 pm 
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I looked on the Rockauto site for a 1974 B300 and found five listings for Steering Damper. Didn't see any listed under the CB300 or MB300.

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PostPosted: September 4th, 2014, 6:06 pm 
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The MOOG version I bought was listed under the B vans as well, but not the CB. I'm wondering if there actually IS a difference, since there's no way it will fit my Hall.

Were those listings Rancho or MOOG?


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PostPosted: September 4th, 2014, 8:08 pm 
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Attachment:
rock_auto_steering_damper.jpg
rock_auto_steering_damper.jpg [ 191.6 KiB | Viewed 3600 times ]

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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 9:08 am 
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b300


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 9:16 am 
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well i had front end done tie rods,ball joints ..bushings ..shocks.,springs ,steering box, had the steering stabilizer on there..idler arm..etc...it still rides a bit harsh..transmits bumps too much into the steering column...i was hoping fer better..i have a winnebago from 72 that is a bit smaller but has better ride as far as cushioning...not sure how to resolve this....also the new springsdid lower the ride height a bit because all i could find ...the ones i pulled off are a bit taller but mb they wertent original cuz nobody can sell me a pair that size..i was told modern day springs mb a little shorter but perform better...so anyway its a bit lower in front but no rubbing on tires or anytghing so i guess its ok...any suggestions about ride quality will be appreciated


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 10:05 am 
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What tire size do you have in front and how much air pressure are you carrying? Mine rides pretty well, has the original springs, an after-market swaybar and Bilstein shocks. IMHO, the Bilsteins did the most to improve ride quality. The swaybar, even though it restricts the steering travel a bit, also helped a lot and it corners like a car. I have a swaybar in the rear as well. The "rebuilt" steering box from NAPA is shite (as they say in the UK), and has leaked from the sector shaft seal since day one. I'd replace it again if it weren't such a huge undertaking.

The reason I want the stabilizer is to reduce the steering sensitivity while cruising down straight highways. I seem to spend a lot of time making small corrections, or maybe it's just me?


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 10:08 am 
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I forgot to ask where you got the springs? They definitely should be the exact same dimensions as the original, not shorter. You can always have the originals re-tempered.


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 10:35 am 
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Well, THIS is interesting. I just spoke to the (actual) manufacturer of the MOOG stabilizer, Heckethorn - Rough Country down in Tn. Gave em the MOOG part number and they informed me that it will, in fact, NOT fit the Dodge B series chassis. Whadda ya think about that?! Looks like some enterprising applications engineer has been extrapolating a bit.

Was that a Rancho stabilizer you bought from Rock Auto??


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 2:01 pm 
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OK, I got it to work by using 3/8" thick steel shim 1 1/4" wide and using one U-bolt longer than those that came with the kit. It IS tight, but it DOES work (well)! If anyone else decides on doing this, feel free to ask questions.


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 2:46 pm 
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Where are the pictures?

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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 4:51 pm 
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I'll send a couple this weekend.


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PostPosted: September 5th, 2014, 9:57 pm 
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it was an moog trail boss steering stabalizer .#ssd21 is part #..ill look at it this weekend ..the steering is tight ..lil bit of sway and adjustment on the open road and solid feel just feels a bit stiff and more sporty rather than gushy...its fine but it transmits bumps right up into the steering column..i guess im kinda used to modern cars and trucks..my truck weighs as much carrying a load and rides like a caddy :P btw the tires are 235 70/75 16 so they are about the same as tires that were on there..idunno what else i can do to the front end...


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PostPosted: September 6th, 2014, 9:35 am 
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That's the same kit I got and had to adjust to fit. It does make a hell of a difference in the feel, doesn't it? A PITA to install, but well worth it. On mine there's no sway at all because of the dual sway bars, but it tends to get blown around a bit in cross winds: a little worrisome but controllable. You shouldn't feel harsh shocks in the wheel, so you might crawl around again and see if something's making metal-to-metal contact where it shouldn't, but it sounds like too much air pressure to me?


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PostPosted: September 6th, 2014, 12:24 pm 
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well with all the new parts on front end my mechanic said it went in easy ...and yes well the ride may have something to do with how im relating it to how it drove before it was really soft and gushy...but everything was worn out ...lol...i think all the parts achieved what i wanted superior handling and feel...but like a sport suspension usually it means the ride quality suffers a bit


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PostPosted: September 6th, 2014, 2:55 pm 
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I hear ya. I'm surprised that it was an easy install for your mechanic. On the other hand, mine has an oil return line that comes out of the bottom/front of the pan that goes to a secondary oil filter, which is definitely in the way. Maybe if that wasn't there the dampener cylinder could be attached to the top of the drag link without running into it, but it looks like it would then be in contact with the transmission oil lines and/or the pan itself. Like I said, I had to make a shim to move the bracket 3/8" out to clear the big castellated nut.....


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PostPosted: January 9th, 2015, 10:06 pm 
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i think i will try the bilstein shocks ..ive always had good results with monroes but reviews ive read about bilsteins is they dramatic improve ride


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PostPosted: January 9th, 2015, 10:10 pm 
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mechanic said the springs compress right up to the bump stops ...they are 1-2 inches lower than the springs that were on there but the only springs i could find for the hall are what i got and when they are on there the ride height is lower..all the manufacturers say that when u put the springs side by side uninstalled the new ones may be smaller but they are stronger than the older ones so ride quality and height should be stock...i dont know what else to try...nobody has ever really heard of this motorhome so they really cant explain anything other than what they recommend for the b300 vans in a book


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PostPosted: January 21st, 2015, 12:12 pm 
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That's because these are CB300, not B300 vehicles. Assuming you didn't get rid of the originals, you can have them re-tempered, providing there's sombody still doing that where you are.


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PostPosted: January 21st, 2015, 4:37 pm 
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Yes, you have to use ones for a motorhome chassis as they are heavier. Like Matt says you may have to get yours redone. Or you could look for a matched pair of used ones from a class C Dodge.

Looks like the B300 ones are 12.5-13" tall (on the bench). Not sure what the free length of the CB300 ones are.

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PostPosted: January 21st, 2015, 4:41 pm 
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I did some searching and this place lists ones for the CB300. They don't give the height specs for them. Says they are rated at 2225 pounds per coil.

www.truckspring.com, part number 350-7226SD

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PostPosted: January 23rd, 2015, 6:11 pm 
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Nice work, Nick. Not sure about anyone else's, but on mine the ball joints and bushings are pretty marginal looking. I think that could contribute to front end issues.


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PostPosted: January 23rd, 2015, 7:41 pm 
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I wrote to the spring place to ask the height but didn't get a response.

If you have marginal ball joints, you should replace them. I mostly need to replace the idler arms on mine. Plus my steering box leaks.

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PostPosted: January 23rd, 2015, 7:54 pm 
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i replaced all that ball joints included..just the springs were an issue


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PostPosted: January 23rd, 2015, 8:01 pm 
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and rock auto does not seell springs for the cb ..and the mb are the same as the b300


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PostPosted: January 24th, 2015, 9:48 am 
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Did you do the joints yourself? I don't scare easy, but that looks like a job for a front end shop for sure. Or?


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